INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader
$25.99
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The INNOVA Ford Digital Code Reader is a diagnostic tool specially designed to work with the vehicle’s test connector to communicate with MCU and EEC-IV computers. It uses electronics designed to retrieve engine and transmission diagnostic trouble codes from the vehicle’s computer but does not generate codes. The code reader serves as a key that links to and opens communication with the vehicle’s computer to prompt the computer to perform self tests and to receive test results or retrieve codes.
Easy-to-view digital display shows numeric trouble codes and eliminates the need to count flashes
Works on most Ford, Lincoln and Mercury domestic cars and trucks from 1982 to 1995
Compatible with MCU and the EEC-IV computer control systems
Memory feature stores codes even when the reader is unplugged
Includes instructions for OBD1 operation and all Ford self-tests
howie –
A great diagnostic tool for trouble shooting engine codes for early Ford trucks
Used this code reader on a 96 Ford F250 with 460 V8. It provided sevetal codes which enabled me to diagnose my ignition problems. A very useful tool and easy to use. You will have to connect it to the connector assembly which is under the hood on the right side of the vehicle below the hood spring.
Nicholas –
As advertised, worked for me
This was extremely helpful! It saved me a lot of time troubleshooting and was easy to use. Perfect fit a avertized, connected with no problem and gave ma and accurate reading.
Maddin –
Super functionality, great tool!
Super functionality, great tool!
Amazon Customer –
The Right Tool for the Job–a “service engine soon” light on a 1989 Chev.
I have a 1989 Corvette that was showing a “service engine soon” light. I’ve got an OBD2 reader, but that’s no use on a car of this age. This unit worked exactly as advertised. I plugged it in, and then read the blinking dash light to get the codes. In my case, the accompanying book indicated I had a problem with my mass airflow sensor and/or my manifold absolute sensor. I cleaned the MAF sensor with the correct cleaner and found that my year’s engine does not have a MAP sensor. I also replaced the two relays that control the MAF sensor. No more “service engine soon” light!!!!I read negative reviews of this device and how the pins will can come loose and retract into the plastic housing making the device useless. Not sure if they’ve improved their manufacturing, or I got lucky, but mine is fine. Finally, The internet is full of very good advice on how you can use a paperclip to jump two of the pins on an OBD-1 port and read the blinking code on the dashboard of these older vehicles. I completely agree that this will work and save you the cost of this device. However, the gymnastics (for me) of holding a paperclip precisely in place (with one hand), while turning on the key and reading (and writing down) the blinking light codes up on the center of the dashboard (with the other hand) made this device an easy decision. Maybe if I had a pickup truck or some other large vehicle with plenty of room in the interior to maneuver, I might have gone with the paperclip.
Craig U. –
Well worth the money!
Nice book with lots of clear ENGLISH instructions and extra general info about how the computer works etc., and a full list of codes. Unit itself is professional looking high quality gear, you won’t be embarrassed to use it. (Unlike how dirt-cheap some certain orange colored tools from a certain unnamed place can appear)I bought a ’93 Lincoln Towncar, and it has an intermittent MIL. It’s “EGR insufficient flow” so can be largely ignored. If a couple cans of Seafoam won’t cure it in the next couple of weeks, I’ll replace the $35 EGR valve and/or clean the carbon out of the manifold passageways.A note about the OBDI which is what these cars have: unlike ‘modern’ OBDII, the MIL operates in real time. (MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light or “check engine” light) With OBDII, if the MIL is triggered, it stays on for the most part. If it’s a one time event, many start/stop cycles might turn it back off, but it usually needs to be cleared. With OBDI, the light may go back out, come back on, go back out as you drive. (It does in my case) The car’s computer has a stored code area, which this tester has access to, so, you can see what’s triggering the MIL as it happens, AND check the stored codes too. In my case, the codes just refer to the (probably intermittently sticking) EGR valve and nothing else, so the price paid for the code reader is worth the piece of mind at the very least.As for buying the extension cable, (or not) on the Towncar, the OBDI connector is on the driver’s side fender, so I can prop the tester up and read it by leaning out the window during run-up testing. It depends on where your diagnostics port is as to whether you need the extension cable. You do need to see the display during real-time testing. If you’re chasing an intermittent MIL, you’ll need a cable to run under the hood and into a window so you can have the tester inside while you drive and have a friend watch the display.
Amy –
Works as advertised.
Works great, manual is very in depth. do not buy the extension, you can easily make that yourself.
beavisboots –
Pins do not stay, get extension cable.
Believe the reviews. The pins push right into the unit as soon as you try and connect it to car.I purchased the extension cable being I want to be inside the car with it running to check codes. Here is what I did to use the reader successfully:-Remove to battery and battery door-Using a flat head screwdriver carefully split the case on the scanner-Using small needle nose pliers, hold the pins from the back on the inside of the scanner-Carefully and slowly work each pin back thru the top of the scanner case and into the extension cable-Temporally electrical tape the scanner case back together-Insert battery and replace battery cover-Test unit on vehicleIf the scanner works correctly at this point, you can remove the tape and use some kind of adhesive glue around the edge of the vase to permanently reattach it. As long as you dont remove the extension cable, it will work as intended.The book of codes and instructions that comes with it is very good. Lots of detail and explanations. Without the extension cable, one would have to figure a way to glue or permanently afix the pins to the top of the case. Doesnt seem like an easy or lasting way.My take:Get the extension cable, follow some form of my instructions, be happy with scanner.
I.G. –
Habe durch das Gerät einige Euros an Werkstattkosten gespart – Natürlich muss man sich mit der Materie etwas auskennen.
mr john mcloughlin –
Brilliant for old ford’s easy to use and all good 👍
Bob Ross –
Easy to follow directions. I did not realize it had 3 test modes. In my case my engine wasn’t running (key on Engine off ((KEOF)). I am carrying out recommende repair and will use the meter again once I get the engine running. Great product picked up the problem from the computers memory. READ THE MANUAL FIIRST before using to know what the first couple of normal codes are and to be aware electric fans start et ceteras. It was well worth the cost especially when a garage charges more for a single test than the cost of the Code reader. Once find out where to plug it in it’s easy to use and re-use. (I can’t believe large garages and dealerships can chaerge that much money for such a simple test. It takes less than a minute to hook up and you don’t need to stand there and watch it for the entire 5 or 6 minutes)
Belinda Prosser –
This worked well on my 1995 car
Jotacy B da Cruz Junior –
Muito bom. Funcionou na minha F1000 4.9 a gasolina, 1997, montada na Argentina.